RICE has long been a cornerstone of Filipino meals, but with growing concerns about malnutrition and food security, an ancient grain is poised to take center stage.
Millet – a gluten-free, nutrient-rich grain – not only offers health benefits but also holds the key to preserving biodiversity and sustainability.
Millet, also called panicum miliaceum is found in various parts of the country and is known as “raut” in Batanes, “dama” in Eastern Visayas, and “Budbod Kabog” in Cebu and Negros Oriental.
Historically, millet was grown alongside rice by our ancestors, according to Ignacio Alsina, an Italian missionary from the 17th century. It was also mentioned by Antonio Pigafetta, the chronicler of Ferdinand Magellan in 1521, in his journal included in the list of Cebuano words.
Considered a “festival food,” millet was reserved for celebrations, reflecting its special place in Filipino culture. Despite its significance, this grain is rarely cultivated today, surviving only in isolated areas such as Batanes, Eastern Visayas, and the mountains of Negros Oriental and Cebu.
How is it cultivated?
Like rice, millet undergoes traditional processes such as pounding, but its cultivation is strikingly simple. Seeds are scattered on plowed soil, watered, and allowed to grow. After a few months, the plants bloom with flowers and grains, which are harvested carefully by separating the stalks and winnowing the tiny grains.
Unlike rice, millet does not require wet rice agriculture and can thrive in arid conditions. This resilience makes it a promising crop for regions struggling with climate change and poor soil fertility.
Why is it endangered?
Despite its potential, millet remains underappreciated and endangered. Like any heritage crop both in the Philippines and globally, ancient grains like millet often lack the recognition and support they deserve.
According to Dr. Augusto de Viana, Associate Professor from the University of Santo Tomas (UST) History Department and a proponent of continuing the production of millet, one challenge lies in the milling process of the small grain, which is significantly more labor-intensive compared to rice.
Furthermore, its cultivation has significantly declined with the absence of nutritional value assessments, with few farmers losing interest in promoting this crop.
Nutritional value
Millet can be the answer to the Philippines’ pressing problems of malnutrition and food security, said Dr. de Viana. Rich in nutrients, it is often transformed into noodles, porridge (lugaw), or suman.
Gluten-free grains like quinoa, buckwheat, and millet are often richer in nutrients such as protein, fiber, and essential vitamins and minerals, making them more nutritionally dense.
As a gluten-free alternative to rice, millet also tends to have a lower glycemic index (GI) typically 52.7 or less than rice which typically has 70, meaning they have a slower impact on blood sugar levels—this can be particularly beneficial for maintaining energy and supporting overall health.
Based on a study done by food scientist Dr. Joan Oñate Narciso of the ETH Zürich, Department of Health Sciences and Technology, entitled, “Breathing New Life to Ancient Crops: Promoting the Ancient Philippine Grain “Kabog Millet” as an Alternative to Rice” it was found that millet is more superior to black rice in terms of its protein value.
Black rice is a type of pigmented rice, known for its high levels of anthocyanin, a powerful antioxidant. It is a good source of fiber, protein, and iron, and it is low in sugar, fat, and salt.
The study reveals that millet contains approximately 12% protein, compared to the 8% found in black rice. Furthermore, the dietary fiber content of whole grain millet ranges between 14-15%, significantly surpassing the 5% found in black rice.
With recent efforts by food scientists and advocacy groups to promote the cultivation of millet, this could bring the heritage grain back into the spotlight, highlighting its potential as an alternative staple food. Not only does it offer a solution to malnutrition, but it also represents a commitment to reviving cultural heritage and ensuring food security for future generations. (JVD/PIA-NCR)
