In the Philippines' culinary scene, where every dish competes for a place in its people's hearts (and stomachs), few dishes have achieved the legendary status of adobo and sinigang. While adobo and sinigang are often considered Filipino favorites, another dish is quietly simmering in the background, ready to take the spotlight.

Introducing ‘kari kari’, a dish with a rich history, flavor, and cultural significance, ready to delight taste buds and take the stage from its more well-known counterparts.

Ruston Banal, an interdisciplinary artist specializing in culinary history, discussed the origins of ‘kari kari’ at the recent KainCon 2024 academic conference, which was organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCAA) in collaboration with the Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement, Slow Food Youth Network Philippines, and Far Eastern University (FEU) Manila from April 15 to 17.

How did ‘kari kari’ landed on our tables?

Banal defines ‘kari kari’ as a popular Filipino meal, with a rich orange-brown sauce from annatto oil, ground rice, and peanuts. Traditionally, it contains beef, oxtail, or tripe, but modern variations may include pork, chicken, seafood, or tofu. It comes with various veggies, including string beans, eggplants, pechay, and banana hearts. Shrimp paste (bagoong) is frequently served alongside to complement the taste. 

“It’s a fascinating dish na pwede nating sabihing pagkain nating lahat,” he added.

(It's a fascinating dish that we can say is a Filipino food.)

According to him, most stories published on social media cite a common source that claims ‘kari kari’ is a Kapampangan (a native of Pampanga) invention.

As per the source, Kapampangan cooks, known as "magkakari (someone who specialized in kari)," and their eateries, called "Kariyan (a place serving kari)," catered to homesick Kapampangan colonial workers in Manila during the Spanish era. 

These establishments, initially called "carijan" in Spanish, evolved into the carinderias we know today. The term "carinderia" derives from "kari." When Tagalogs started their versions, Kapampangans mockingly called them "kari kari," implying they were inferior copies.

However, Banal, a proud Kapampangan, finds this narrative divisive, as it pits Kapampangans against Tagalogs. 

“Because of that discomfort, I started doing my own grounding and asking culinary historians kung meron ba talagang basis itong anecdote na ‘to,” he shared.

(Because of that discomfort, I started doing my own grounding and asking culinary historians if there's really any basis to this anecdote.)

After thoroughly investigating the archives, Mr. Banal discovered no proof that ‘kari kari’ originated in Pampanga.

During his research, Banal came upon the story of the “sepoys", Indian conscripts from the East India Company's Madras army who joined the British army in their 1762 attempt to conquer the Philippines. 

The intricate history of ‘kari kari’ may be traced back to the British conquest of Manila in 1762–1764. When the British left after a few years because of the Treaty of Paris, the sepoys stayed in the Philippines. They established curry food kiosks, known as "karihan" in Tagalog, which later evolved into "carinderias." Carinderias gradually expanded its menu beyond curry.

‘Kari-kari’ as a Filipino dish

Banal uncovered historical documents that shed light on ‘kari kari’ as an integral part of Filipino cuisine.

Blumentrit's citation of Pardo De Tavera in "Filipinismos Con La Revision de Lo Que al Respecto Lleva Publicado La Real Academia Española" (1921) provides valuable insight into the origins and significance of the term "cari." 

"Cari" is a British Indian dish that mixes shrimp and a spicy sauce. "Cari" is valued by Filipinos and Europeans for its tonic features, particularly useful in tropical conditions. It has made its way onto select French and English menus.

Furthermore, "carinderia" refers to local kiosks that prepare and serve "cari" along rivers like the Pasig, particularly catering to boatmen.

On the other hand, according to a Bibleotica Nacional de España document, a Spanish participant at a conference mentioned Kari, a delicacy from the Philippines said to have originated from the Indios. 

The Indio version of Kari consists of cooking chicken pieces with other meat scraps, herbs, and stock for half an hour before straining the mixture to make a tasty broth.

The next time you cook or order your favorite “kare-kare” from a nearby “karinderya” it is worth considering that the yummy dish has also symbolized the Filipinos' culinary creativity, versatility, and adaptability. Its long history dates back to the 18th century and demonstrates the various influences that have molded Philippine cuisine over time. 

As ingredients and cooking techniques changed, “kari kari” developed and expanded throughout the country. It has stood the test of time as a flavorful symbol of Filipino resilience and cultural heritage. (GLDG/PIA-NCR)